Siena is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. And during the Palio, it becomes one of the most thrilling! This 90 second horse race controls the psyche of the whole town, not just for a day but for the whole year. Impossible to describe. Impossible to forget. After the Palio portion of this trip we biked and hiked through the hills south of Siena for a further five days, tasting the wines of Montalcino and Montepulciano as we went along.

Frothy cappuccino and full buffet breakfast in the towering inner courtyard of our 5-star hotel in the heart of Siena.

The Golden Age of Siena was in the medieval period.  A leading Ghibelline center of 12th century Tuscany and hence a rival to Florence, Siena still celebrates its victory over the larger city in 1260 at the Battle of Montaperti. This is one of the symbols to be explained later during the parade and an example of how the past and tradition mean everything to Siena.

On foot down the Banchi di Sopra with our expert guide for a walking tour of town – piazza del Campo, Palazzo Pubblico, Pinacoteca, Cathedral, ancient hospital.  2 ½ hours barely makes a dint in what’s to be seen.

Outside on the terrace of La Finestra, owned by staunch supporters or our favorite contrada, Civetta (The Owl).  Carla and Fabio produce a stunning lunch even though their mind is completely on the upcoming race.

An in-depth lecture not so much on the Palio as a concept but this specific Palio as an upcoming battle.  Which enemies are running?  Which friends might help each other?  Who has the best horse?  Best jockey?  Which contrada hasn’t won for a long time and thus is desperate to prevail?

Into our seats for the two hour traditional parade.  Cameras never stop clicking as one fabulous costume after another goes by. 

Sometimes it can take hours at the starting line for the race to begin but this year’s gets off after only about 10 minutes of jostling.  Four jockeys are thrown off (one directly in front of us, knocking himself unconscious literally at our feet!) and a couple horses go down but Pantera surges at the final corner to overtake Aquila who led the entire way.  Did the Aquila jockey throw the race for a price?  We’ll never know.

Once the crowd calms down, we walk across the piazza to Siena’s best and best-known restaurant, Osteria Le Logge where our great friend Gianni Brunelli waits with many good bottles of his own Brunello.  Dinner al fresco on the street within view of the piazza.

After dinner some stroll, some sit, some drink but everyone is in the piazza.

At the finest hotel in Siena, the 5-star Grand Hotel Continental right on the Banchi di Sopra.  Magnificently renovated medieval palazzo with views out over the valley.